- Durée :5 jours
- Taille du groupe :1 à 2 pers.
- Saison :summer
- Pays :Suisse
Considered as one of the world's most beautiful peaks, the Matterhorn has long mesmerised those who adore the mountains. The Weissmies at 4023m stands apart in the eastern Valais like a lone sentry. "Weiss" means white and "mies" means foam. It's a peak that continues to inspire fantasy among mountain-lovers. The Matterhorn's easier itinerary is the south face. It finishes with the famous sections on the Hornli ridge. Although it is technicallly straightforward, the length of the climb and the altitude - from 3000m to 4478m - rank it among the most gruelling alpine stages. Reaching the top of this unique and celebrated peak is an intense and privileged moment. This is one of our most beautiful alpine courses.
Parcours
Points forts
Highlights of the trip
The best technical preparation to climb successfully the Matterhorn, with rock and mixte climbing
3 days to be well acclimatised
The ratio of 1 guide, 1 client to climb Matterhorn
5 days in the heart of the Valais surrounded by all the most famous peak in the Alps
Programme
Subject to change depending on conditions and participants' fitness.
Day 1: Almageller Hut
Ascent from the village of Saas Almagell to Almageller hut. Night in hut.
Day 2: Travers of the Dri Horlini
A lovely ridge crossing on excellent rock with several grade IV sections. The day lasts about four hours in a stunning world of high summits. It's an excellent way to revise rope skills, to climb and warm up for the mountain. Night at Almageller hut.
Day 3: Weissmies traverse south ridge - north side
Night departure to reach Zwischebergenpass(3268 m) where we start climbing the south ridge. Climbing sections up to grade III and sometime IV with few superb aerial passages. From the summit the view of all the famous Valais peaks is sumptuous: Mont Rose, Weisshorn, Dom de Mischabels and more. We descend by the south ridge, with sections up to grade III. This ridgeline is excellent training for the Matterhorn. From the Weissmies hut we take the cable car into the valley and the village of Saas Almagell. We continue to Saas Grund by bus. Transfer by car to Taesch. Night at hotel.
Hours: about 10
Day 4: Hornli
Sleep in! We take the train from Taesch to Zermatt and continue on the Schwarzee cable car to the Hornli hut (3260m). A transition and rest day before going for the Matterhorn summit.
Hours: 2 to 3
Altitude covered: +680m
Day 5: Ascent of the Matterhorn
A 3am start to launch gently into the climb. Chutes, switchbacks and navigating around stone towers and rocky walls takes us to the Solvay hut. After a few rocky passages we emerge into snow and ice. Fixed ropes help this part of the climb which, at this altitude, is difficult. You arrive on the summit via a snowy crest, crampons on, exhilarated at your achievement. Descent via the same route to the valley and drive back to Chamonix.
Hours: 10 to 12
Altitude covered: +1218m / -1800m
Carte
Budget
Information supplémentaire sur le prix
Price is based on a group of 2 persons, 1 guide from day 1 to day 3
On a basis 1 CHF = 0,86 €
1 guide per person for Matterhon ascent day 4 and 5
The price includes:
Organisation
High mountain guide for 5 days; Ratio 1 guide for 2 persons from day 1 to day 3; 1 guide per person for day 4 and 5.
Full board from day 1 breakfast, to day 5 lunch (except breakfast and diner in Taesch)
Equipment provided by guide ( ropes, carabiners, etc.)
Train or taxi from Taesch – Zermatt
Descent in Weissmies cable car
Schwarzsee cable car up and down from Zermatt
The price excludes:
Transport to meeting place (car sharing is possible)
Booking fees (20 €/pax)
Breakfast and dinner at Taesch
Personal gear hire
Personal expenses (drinking water in huts, energy bars, phone calls)
Single room supplement
Extra charges arising from program changes
Insurance (for Europeans only):
| Prices TTC by person | ||
|
Price average trip per person |
Multirisk (cancellation + rapatriation) |
Cancellation |
| up to 350€ | 62 € | 20 € |
| from 351 € to 700€ | 75 € | 29 € |
| from 701€ to 1200€ | 94 € | 41 € |
| from 1201€ to 2000€ | 115 € | 58 € |
| from 2001€ to 4000€ | 133 € | 69 € |
| from 4001€ to 16000€ | 5,5% + 19€ | 4,4% + 19€ |
Odyssée Montagne provides tailor-made tours and expeditions for private groups of friends, clubs and charity organisations. Contact us!
Organisation
Technical level
You need to have previous experience of high mountain climbs including levels PD to AD on mixte, rock and snow climb.
Snow and ice gradients of 35° to 45°
Easy rock climbing, level 3 to 4 but with mountain shoes and back pack
Please send us a summary of your mountaineering experience and climb
Fitness level
Daily altitude range of up to 1400m. Days lasting 10 to 12 hours.
Excellent fitness required.
Changes to the program
The guide reserves the right to change the program according to participants' capacity, weather, and conditions on the mountain. In cases where a participant's capacity does not meet the required level, we will offer an alternative itinerary or add a second guide for the ascent of the Matterhorn.
On request, it is also possible to traverse from the Arête du Hornlï to the Arête du Lyon. This adds a day to the program and changes the price. Quotes on request.
Your guide
High mountain guide, state qualified, english-speaking
Duration
5 days/4 nights
Meeting point
Meet your guide at 9am on day 1 in front of the SNELL Sports shop, 104 rue Paccard (main pedestrian street), Chamonix for a briefing and gear check.
If you need accommodation in Chamonix before or after your course, please tell us in advance and we'll book it for you.
Access
By train (SNCF): Chamonix train station via Saint Gervais Le Fayet. If you come by train, buy a flexible and refundable ticket.
By plane: Geneva airport by coach or shuttle.
Accommodation
In catered huts, and a hotel in Taech.
There is bottled drinking water only in huts, for purchase. Ensure you have cash to buy some.
Meals
Breakfast and dinner are provided in the huts.
Lunch packs are provided, which you carry, eg: ham, bread, cheese, cake, chocolate
Bring your own energy bars and nuts.
Vegetarian menu available on request
Don't carry heavy snacks: avoid oranges, creamed rice. Eggs and bananas crush; salami does not keep.
Documents
Identity card or passport
Matériel
See MOUNTAINEERING LIST
Plus: climbing shoes
Supplied safety and group gear: ropes and safety gear
Liste des étapes
Day by day
Day 1: Almageller hut
Day 2: Almageler hut (2194m)
Day 3: Weissmies traverse (4023m)
Day 4: Hornli hut (3260m)
Day 5: Matterhorn (4478m) by Hornli ridge