Climb Mont Blanc: the ultimate alpine challenge

Climbing Mont Blanc… just a dream?  Or can I make it a reality?  This is the question many people ask themselves. Well here is your answer!

I’m on my way back from a Mont Blanc course lasting 6 days. We successfully summited with Lily, Wade and Peter – who has recently turned 70. First of all bear in mind that climbing Mont Blanc is long, physically demanding, requiring focus and determination, and the ability to walk on rough terrain for a minimum of 6 hours per day. Preparation is vital both for the acclimatation (often underestimated), and ice and rock climbing technique.

The course started with an ice training exercise on the Tour glacier, to master the basic skills of using crampons. This is a reasonably difficult and physical day, with  much achieved in terms of confidence on the glacial terrain. Day two we climbed the Aiguille du Tour, a perfect mountain to improve rock climbing skills, with a spectacular view from the summit.  That night was spent in the Trient Hut, returning the next day via  the col des neige and the summit of the Tête Blanche. These three days of technical training and acclimatisation are essential for a successful summit of Mont Blanc.

On day four we walked up to Tête Rousse Hut.  This was a short hike of around 2 hours, which allowed us some rest time in the hut to admire the west flank of the aiguille du Gouter which we would be climbing the following day.

The fifth day – the longest yet! We had a 6am start from the Tete Rousse hut, and made it to the Gouter hut by 8am. We had a rest and warm drink before heading up towards our goal – the Mont Blanc summit. Peter was doing very well, and I had no qualms about his ability to make the summit. We ascended the Dôme du Gouter at a steady pace, before having a short rest at the shoulder to snack and have another hot drink. The summit of Mount Blanc was still shrouded by thin cloud, the sign of a strong wind, but the weather forcast was good and the wind was decreasing. We arrived at the small Vallot hut, put our walking poles in our pack, as now things begin to get serious.  The steepest section is between here and the first false summit. If you are feeling strong at this point, in my experience you have a 90% chance of getting to the top. We took the “old guide rhythm” and were at the summit 4 hours later. The wind was a gentle 20 km/h, it was a warm day, and we were alone at the top. What could be better? After a few photos we started our way back down to sleep in the Gouter hut. The next day was a straightforward walk down the aiguille du Gouter.  Finally what seemed like such an almighty challenge, was easily accomplished. Peter, Wade and Lily successfully summited Mont Blanc, thanks to their physical condition, determination, and vital preparation.

After 24 years of guiding, I will tell you that fitness is the first key to a successful summit, followed by good acclimatisation and technical preparation. You can’t compromise on that if you want to stand on the top of Mont Blanc!

Here is the testimonial of Peter:

Hi Pierre

Merci beaucoup !!! Thanks to you and your fellow guides I had a most incredible trek to the summit of Mont Blanc. First, your guidance on the training days was highly invaluable especially to those of us where the use of crampons and ice and snow techniques was an unknown experience. Those days undoubtedly contributed to the success of our ascent

Your guidance and complete attention to my safety on the mountain was outstanding. Not one footstep was missed and I felt completely confident in your care.

I was also particularly grateful for the way you were flexible with the program so we able to miss the bad weather and summit in almost perfect conditions

An adventure I will never forget, we shall be back

Cheers

Peter

Here are our photos of this superb Mont Blanc course that you can find on our web site at: http://www.odyssee-montagne.com/ascension-du-mont-blanc-objectif-4810-m-voie-normale-ref-du-gouter.html

Pierre