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4000m peaks in Monte Rosa massif

This is a magnificent 5 day mountainering course, offering a variety of terrain and views; through glaciers and seracs, up rocky ridges to snow capped summits.  Monte Rosa itself is the jewel in the crown, being the second highest mountain in the Alps, and provides the perfect opportunity to develop your alpine skills within a breathtaking environment.

High mountain guide, UIAGM certified, English speaking

1,135.00 €

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1,135.00 €

Duration : 5 days

Size of group : 4 ppl

Season : Summer

Country : Switzerland

Next departure: 15/07/2018

Max Altitude : 4563m


Fitness level

Technical level

Evaluate your level

Trip details

Summer.  Alpinism.  Switzerland
Reférence : ALSUI005


an be modified at any time due to the mountain or weather conditions, or participants' ability


Day 1 : Guides d’Ayas refuge
Take the cable car up to the Petit Cervin (3883 m), then climb the Breithorn (4164 m) by a snow / ice slope of gradient 40° max.
Traverse across to the refuge des guides d’Ayas (3400 m) by an easy but spectacular route along the foot of the Breithorn.
Time: 4 to 6 hours
Vertical ascent : + 450 m / - 1160 m
Difficulty : easy. Snow slopes of average 30°. Easy ridge climb.

Day 2 : Quintino Sella
Ascension and traverse of the Castor (4228 m) by a 40° snow slope, followed by a snowy ridge.
Easy but very aesthetic route.  Nevertheless vigilance is required due to the danger of cornices.
Time : 5 to 6 hours pour le Castor
Dénivelé : + 800 m / - 640 m
Difficulté : peu difficile

Day 3 : Gnifetti refuge
Ascension of the Nez du Lyskamm (4272 m) and back down to the glacier de Felik and the glacier du Lys.
We will take the southern route of the Lyskamm, before climbing to the top of the Nez du Lyskamm.
Slopes of 45° max, can be delicate depending on the snow and ice conditions. We descend onto the passo del Naso, then onto the glacier du Lys, via a slope of 35/40°.
After having traversed the glacier, we will climb the pyramide Vincent (4215 m), an easy ascent, with a stunning view over the south face of the Monte Rosa, and the immense couloir Marinelli. Descent to the refuge Gnifetti (3600 m).
Easy snow route.
Time : 6 to 8 hours

Vertical ascent : + 1080 m / - 1100 m
Difficulty : Easy, but quite dependant on the snow conditions on the slopes.  The angle is à 40/45°.

Day 4 : Refuge Margheritta
The highlight of the glacier walks.
We walk up to the bivouac hut Giordano Balmenhorn (4167 m), then link the summits of the Corno Nero (4322 m), Ludwigshöhe (4342 m), and to finish, the superb traverse of the arial ridge of the pointe Parrot (4436 m).
Climb back down to the pointe Gnifetti (4454 m) to find the cabane Margherita, dating from 1893.
From the balcony of the refuge, we can look down to the Italian side 2000m below us.
Ascension easyin general, but still requiring good crampon technique, especially for the pointe Parrot.  Spend a night at the highest refuge in, the cabane Margheritta
Time : 6 to 8 hours
Vertical ascent : + 1300 m / - 250 m
Difficulty : easy

Day 5 : Zumsteinspitze
Easy climb to the summit of the Zumsteinspitze (4563 m) by an easy snow slope, followed by a mixed ridge up to the summit.
Superb view over all the Alps, the immense south east face, the couloir Marinelli, and the ridge leading up to the pointe Dufour.
Descent via the impressive glacier du Grenzgletcher, passing by the north face of the Lyskamm.
Back to the la cabane du Monte Rosa before traversing the glacier du Gorner.
We descend into Zermatt, and take a funicular at the Rotenboden station.
Vertical ascent : + 450 m / - 2100 m
Time: 6 to 7 hours.




Additional Information

Technical Level

High mountain experience on French grades PD / PD+
Snow slopes between 35° and 45°. You should have already climbed similarly angled snow slopes.  The ascension of the Nez du Lyskam has a maximum angle of 45° over a short section.  You should know how to use crampons.
The climbing grade is easy (French level III).


Physical Level

Vertical ascents of between 600 and 1000 m every day, taking between 6 and 10 hours.
You should be very fit before embarking on this course, as the days will be tiring especially at high altitude.

Modification of the program

The guide can modify the program at any time, based on the snow conditions, weather conditions, or the ability of one or more of the participants. 

It is possible to do a more technical verion of the program, with the ascent of the famous Bianco Grat on the Piz Bernina, then the Piz Roseg.

Contact us to discuss the possible options.



You will be with a High Mountain Guide (UIAGM certified)
- 4 persons maximum per guide



Day 1 at 08h30 at the Taesch railway station

Getting here

By car from the north : Zürich - Chur - St Moritz Pontresina - Route du col de la Bernina.

By car from the south : Milan Lecco - Maloja Pass - St Moritz.

By train : Zurich – Chur – St Moritz or Genève – Brig – Chur.
Possibility to lift share with your guide from Chamonix (sharing petrol costs at 0,30 EUR / km, and the road toll costs). The contact details of the guide will be sent to you 10 days before departure.

If you come by plane / train, we would suggest you either get flexible tickets, or allow for contingency.


In mountain refuges.  Mostly you have to buy your own bottled water in the refuges.



- Picnics : we will provide you with a picnic lunch (e.g. ham / cheese sandwich, cake, chocolate)
Vegetarian menu on request.
We suggest you also bring your own snacks as a supplement to the meals, e.g. dried fruit, energy bars, chocolate (nothing to heavy or squashable please!)

The refuges will provide your picnics for the last 2 days.



Kit list

See the standard list for "Alpinism".

The full list will be sent to you once you book.

Map: Italienne Monte Rosa N° 109 - 1/25.000.





Additional Cost Information

The price is calculated based on 4 people.

On a basis 1 € = 0,99 CHF


The price includes

Your high mountain guide
Shared material (ropes etc)
Breakfasts, lunches and dinners from lunch on day 1 to lunch on the last day
Passes for the cable cars and funicular


The price does not include

Transport as far as Taesch
Booking fee (17 €/pers.)
The train from Taesch to Zermatt and back

Additional snacks and drinks

The additional costs to a program change (hotels, transport, food ...)

Your own personal gear
Optional insurance :


     Prices TTC by person


(cancellation + repatriation)

up to 350€ 62 € 20 €
from 351 € to 700€ 75 € 29 €
from 701€ to 1200€ 94 € 41 €
from 1201€ to 2000€ 115 € 58 €
from 2001€ to 4000€ 133 € 69 €
from 4001€ to 16000€ 5,5% + 31€ 4,4%
discount family/friends 20% from the 4th to the 9th person



Document non contractuel


Odyssée Montagne - Les Barbolets - 74310 Servoz - France
Tél: +33 (0)4 50 91 20 83


SARL au capital de 7623 € - RCS Gap 393 593 397 00010 - Licence d'état: 074980006.
Garantie par l'APS, 6 rue Villaret de Joyeuse, 75017 Paris
RCP : Hiscox. 12 quai des Queyries. 33100 Bordeaux

This chain of mountains straddling Switzerland and Italy offers a fabulous selection of 4000m peaks, possibly the most spectacular in the Alps.  This is a magnificent 5 day course mostly spent at altitude, offering a variety of terrain and views; through glaciers and seracs, up rocky ridges to snow capped summits.


Day 1 : Breithorn (4164 m), Guides d’Ayas refuge
Day 2 : Castor (4228 m), Quintino Sella refuge
Day 3 : Nez du Lyskamm (4272 m), Citta di Mentova refuge
Day 4 : Pointe Gnifetti (4454 m), Margheritta refuge
Day 5 : Zumsteinspitze (4563 m) to Mt Rose

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A fantastic opportunity to explore some of the highest peaks and longest glaciers in Europe.  This is a reasonably technical week, which requires previous mountaineering experience.  It is advisble to be in good physical shape, as many of the days are spent above 4000m.